The first picture above is a remarkable water-colour sketch by
artist John Johnson, of the guest-house in Mercara which was very likely
built around 1795-1801 during Dodda Veerarajendra’s reign. There are
several mentions of this guest-house in the writing of British visitors
to Coorg. This accommodation was exclusively for the European visitors
and had all amenities the westerners were used to. It was located at
the area where the Government Central School is now situated. Mercara
Fort can be seen in the background. One of the guests during
Lingarajendra’s rule, General James Welsh, gave the following
description of the building when he visited Coorg in 1811:
“I must now describe our own habitation, built on a small island,
surrounded by paddy ground, now dry for the sole accommodation of
Europeans. It is a large square, having a hall in the centre, a large
covered-in verandah all round it, and four bed-rooms projecting at the
angles of the verandah, all on an upper story, the lower rooms serving
for the guard, attendants, store-rooms etc. It stands on a square of
seventy feet, the verandah having thirty-eight glass windows, with
venetian blinds outside. The bed-rooms have sixteen windows, and the
hall eight glass door; every part being neatly furnished, in the English
style, with beds, tables, card-tables, writing boxes, chairs,
chandeliers, settees etc. etc. And there is an old butler of my
Vellore friend Colonel Ridgway Mealay, and a dozen active servants, who
very speedily produce an English breakfast or dinner, served up on
handsome Queen’s ware, with every kind of European liquor; and what is
even still more extraordinary, the cook bakes good bread!”
Another visitor, Dr. William Jeafreson, was a guest of Chikka
Veerarajendra in 1830. He spent 22 days in Coorg. He wrote about the
guest-house in these words:
“…There we found a splendid bungalow, fitted up for our accommodation, with every possible convenience.
Round this residence grew flowers of the richest hues and the sweetest
perfume, while trees, laden with delicious fruit, among whose branches
perched wild birds of the brightest and most variegated plumage, cast
over us their agreeable shade.
Near this bungalow was a tank, made of black marble of the highest
polish and most elaborate workmanship, in the centre of which rose a
fountain, throwing up jets of water so clear and pellucid that hundreds
of large and beautiful fish might be seen disporting in the basin, or
else darting about in every direction after their prey. This tank was
the favourite resort of the Rajah who was wont to visit it daily, at
noon. Standing beside it, he would ring a small gold bell, he carried
in his hand, and, at its tinkling, all the fish collected together at
one spot, anxiously waiting their food (young frogs, parched peas etc.),
which an attendant threw to them from a basket.
In another part of the garden was an immense black marble stand, of
pyramidal form, along the five front steps of which were arranged
hundreds of bleached skulls of elephants, being the Optima Spolia of the
chase.”
After the British annexed Coorg in 1834, this building was surprisingly
neglected. By 1860s it was in bad shape and was crumbling. It was in
1862 that 64 Coorg elders approached the British government to build a
boarding house for boys attending the Central School. They suggested
the site of the guest-house for the hostel, and further requested the
material from the collapsed building be used for construction! The
British agreed, and the boarding house was ready by 1871 under Rev.
Richter’s supervision.
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